Read the procedure as follows for PIP module bypas
The details as as follows :---
This applies to most Direct view and some projection sets made in the 1990's.
While it is possible to repair in some cases this problem it is quicker and cheaper just to bypass the module--you will no longer have the PIP function.
Here are the bypass instructions:
1.) With the set unplugged remove the back cover and locate the PIP board to the left side of the set--one wire (usually green) is soldered to the metal shield. Unsolder the lead and set it aside.
2.) The board is plugged in and you will have to release the two tabs at the bottom to pull it out.
3.) Locate the pins on the large plug (should be 12 pin) on the bottom of the board.
4.) You need to CUT the copper foil traces with an Exacto knife on pins 5, 7, 9. and 11 near the plug so they are no longer connected to the plug.
5.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 7 and the - or negative on pin 9.
6.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 5 and the - (negative) on pin 11.
7.) Reinstall the PIP board and make sure the caps do not touch anything near that board; solder the ground wire back to the shield.
The reason the board fails is because the surface mounted caps dry out and or leak onto the circuit board---there are a lot of them.
I have seen shops replace some of the caps and get it to work but sooner or later more go bad so usually it is better just to bypass the board and not have the PIP feature anymore.
The above mentioned details will help you out.
The details as as follows :---
This applies to most Direct view and some projection sets made in the 1990's.
While it is possible to repair in some cases this problem it is quicker and cheaper just to bypass the module--you will no longer have the PIP function.
Here are the bypass instructions:
1.) With the set unplugged remove the back cover and locate the PIP board to the left side of the set--one wire (usually green) is soldered to the metal shield. Unsolder the lead and set it aside.
2.) The board is plugged in and you will have to release the two tabs at the bottom to pull it out.
3.) Locate the pins on the large plug (should be 12 pin) on the bottom of the board.
4.) You need to CUT the copper foil traces with an Exacto knife on pins 5, 7, 9. and 11 near the plug so they are no longer connected to the plug.
5.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 7 and the - or negative on pin 9.
6.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 5 and the - (negative) on pin 11.
7.) Reinstall the PIP board and make sure the caps do not touch anything near that board; solder the ground wire back to the shield.
The reason the board fails is because the surface mounted caps dry out and or leak onto the circuit board---there are a lot of them.
I have seen shops replace some of the caps and get it to work but sooner or later more go bad so usually it is better just to bypass the board and not have the PIP feature anymore.
The above mentioned details will help you out.
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