Replacing CONVERGENCE IC?

Convergence problem is faced on many tv models.In most of the cases its the problem of two mini convergence ic's.Replacing this ic's is not very difficult.

CONVERGENCE IC REPLACEMENT:
What you will need;
Two new STK-392-110 convergence Ic?s
Solder
Liquid solder flux
Desoldering braid or wick
A good soldering Iron
Some denatured alcohol
A small toothbrush
A Philips screwdriver or screw gun to REMOVE SCREWS
A PAIR OF GLOVES 

1. UNPLUG TV SET.
2. Remove back cover of TV set.
3. Remove entire front speaker grill on set(it pulls off and may resist being removed)
4. Locate and unplug speaker wires (they are plugged into the main circuit board).
5. Locate three cables with wires that come from the Front keyboard?two of them have to be unplugged from the main board(all plugs are different sizes but note where they go)
6. Remove 2 long philips silver machine bolts from the front of the set (behind the grill).
7. Remove 4 more in the back of the set; two are located at the extreme back edge of the plastic frame and hold the chassis down; two more are located on either side and also go straight down; note which are which and set them aside.
8. Using gloves pull the entire metal box (it is called a light box) out of the set; there are hand holds on either side?careful as the metal has sharp edges.
9. Remove the box from the set and locate the two Convergence IC chips; they are located on identical metal heat sinks with fins and they should have the STK-392-110 number clearly printed on them in white (they are black)
10. Turn the light box over on its side and UNSOLDER ALL 18 PINS ON EACH IC. It is a good idea to apply liquid solder flux to the pins on both chips now. Use a de-soldering braid for this?get all the pins completely de-soldered.
11. Inspect the dozen or so light blue resistors in front of them; most are marked 2.2 ohms?if any are white in the middle you will need to replace them at the same time; best way is to check all of them like checking a fuse----they protect the set if one of the STK?s shorts in any way.
12. With the STK?s completely unsoldered turn the box upright and remove the two screws on each IC. If the chips have never been replaced you will need to tap them loose with a putty knife or flat bladed screwdriver.
13. Remove both IC?s.
14. Apply heat sink grease to the two new IC?s and install them one at a time; this part can take some time and it is important the pins on the new IC?s are perfectly straight---once you get them in, Hand tighten both the screws on each IC---do not use a screw gun?you can strip the screw holes out. Clean the bottom of the circuit board where the chips were soldered with some denatured alcohol and apply liquid solder flux to all the pins.
15. Presuming you have already found/replaced any bad resistors turn the box back over and solder carefully both of the two new IC?s in, --do not short any of the pins to each other when you do this and when you are done it is a good idea to take a close look at both to make sure all pins are soldered and not touching each other with soldering you have just done.Clean the pins on the bottom of the circuit board again with denatured alcohol.
16. Slide entire light box back into the cabinet.
17. Reconnect the plugs you removed when you removed the box. At this point take a lens cloth or a paper towel with glass cleaner sprayed on it and clean the three large black lens-if they are dusty the picture will be darker and not as clear as is should.
18. Position the box so it is all the way in place and none of the wires or plugs are pinched.
19. At this point turn the set on before you replace the Six bolts that hold it in?2 from the front and the four in back----this way if you have a problem you can remove the box faster.
20. If the set comes on and now has normal Convergence go into the customer menu and adjust the convergence in the multi-point mode----CAREFUL! THE FIRST OPTION this set usually offers is a green cross in the middle of the screen?do not adjust Green!
21. Once you have the Red and Blue in the center adjusted find the second convergence mode---it will give you 8 or nine points on the screen with instructions on how to change from blue to red---use the original remote with the thumb wheel or cursor buttons to adjust.
22. NOTE: SOME of these sets need to have the Convergence adjusted in first: full/4:3 and second in the other two zoom/wide zoom and third on the HD input with a HD signal coming in. There is also an option at this point to go into the Technical menu and fine adjust the convergence all over the screen?if you need this I can give you instructions based on the model you have?most of the time adjusting the set in the customer mode will produce a good result.
23. It seems complicated, but this repair should take about an hour or so and just take your time when you get to adjusting the set.
24. If all looks good turn the set off and Unplug it; install all 6 of the chassis bolts back; replace the back cover and the Speaker grill and plug the set back in.
25. You may find it useful to go over the convergence Adjust again?to get all the points as good as you can. There is a hidden Tech menu that will allow a finer adjustment of the entire screen----it is somewhat difficult to access and there are a lot of buttons on the remote that then do different things.
26. Most of the time adjusting in the customer menu will give you a very acceptable picture.

This above mentioned details will help you know how to replace convergence ic and how to set the picture to perfect mode.

TV shuts off ?

Tv shuts off as soon as its turned on.Also known as instant shut off problem.this was very much noticed on Mitsubishi brands TV.


Most of the Mitsubishi rear projection sets made from about 2000 through 2006 have a self diagnostic check feature. It will indicate if there is a error or not and point you in the direction of your trouble.

Based on the error code I or others can tell you more based on the error code and the EXACT model number of the set.

Here is what you do if it turns on for a few seconds and then the power light goes off.

UNPLUG TV AND THEN PLUG BACK IN---TURN ON---GREEN POWER LIGHT COMES ON FOR A MOMENT AND GOES OFF.

PRESS AND HOLD ?Menu and Input"(or device) buttons on front of tv for at least 5 seconds and then release both together.


Watch for power light to blink in a sequence:

1 blink-then 2 blinks-------no error

2 blink-then 1 blink-------X-ray protection

2 blink-then 2 blink-------SHORT PROTECTION*******

2 blink-then 3 blink---------deflection circuit problem

2 blink-then 4 blink---------vertical circuit problem


******2, then 2 is most common---usually means one of the fuses that protect the Convergence IC or IC?s is blown---set will detect no voltage to convergence IC and shut down.


SET WILL REPEAT BLINK ERROR CODE UP TO 5 TIMES AND THEN TO GET IT TO REPEAT MORE YOU HAVE TO UNPLUG SET AND TRY TO TURN ON AGAIN.


IF IT IS 2 AND THEN 2---USUALLY
CONVERGENCE CIRCUIT PROBLEM

If someone has one of these codes and needs help let me know.Keep updated here with what code you receive.So i can give you more details.


The above mentioned detail will basically help you know the problem better on your television set.

Blue screen and Shuts down?

This problem was very much noticed on

Sony KP51hw40 television.


Many of these sets had problems with bad picture Tubes--they use a red, green and blue CRT. Most commonly the blue gives troubles--The tubes are now only available on a rebuild basis--usually not worth doing as the cost is very high.

You may have a bad blue picture tube but there is a way to deal with this first----the set has a black plastic block with six controls---three are Focus(red,green,blue) the other 3 controls are Screen controls(red, green, blue)

Someone has to remove the entire piece on the front of the set below the screen(usually a plastic part) most of the time it is secured with 3 screws on either side of the set in the back; once you remove the screws the entire piece should pull out(pull from right to left(it will not fall off or come out easy--it is held in with several large plastic pegs) With it removed there is an inspection plate with 4 screws-----the screen/focus block is behind it.

You need to look very closely at the block to identify the focus versus screen controls----one row left to right will be marked Focus and the other row left to right will be marked screen------YOU need to locate the Blue Screen control(they are black like the block) With the set on(be careful) go to a video input with nothing connected---if you see a blue screen as well as the input number turn the BLUE SCREEN CONTROL SLOWLY TO THE LEFT UNTIL THE BLUE is gone.

If this cures the problem you may only be buying yourself some time----if the blue picture tube is bad sooner or later this trouble may return----I have seen sets where this was adjusted and the set worked for a year or more with no repeat of the trouble----replacing the blue tube would likely cost you 400 -500 dollars including parts and labor.






The above mentioned details will help to understand this problem better on your television.

Replacing color wheel on television?

The detailed mentioned here will help you to get your televisions color wheel replaced.
The procedure is as follows :---
This varies a little depending on model number of the set.
Usually a bad color wheel will produce a high pitched sound or even a grinding noise; some sets may actually shut down if the wheel is bad or shattered.
To determine if you have a bad color wheel:
Turn set off and wait for main fan to shut off.
Unplug the set.
Remove the lamp door and then remove the lamp.
In the direction the lamp faces you will see a round opening; the color wheel is facing this opening.It is a round plastic wheel with colored segments?we want to look to see if any of the segments are missing; a shattered wheel should be clear to see.
If the wheel is shattered or makes the high pitched fan like sound you can with the model number go online to someplace like Ebay with the model number of your set and find a part number and replacement wheel for your set---most of these are 70 to 90 plus shipping?make sure you get the right part.
The wheel turns at about 14,000 rpm and eventually the motor seizes up causing this problem.
Depending on model number there are some variations on how to replace it; but for the most part it requires the following.
With the set unplugged remove the entire back cover.
Locate the optical light engine dead center in the middle of the set. Some models have a large square box in front of it that you have to unbolt and remove plugs from one side?mark the plugs so when you remove them you can put them back in the exact same place.
The Light engine has to be pulled out of the set to replace the color wheel; this kind of repair usually takes less than an hour from start to finish.
Once you get the engine out you will find a somewhat square black plastic shroud on the right side of it----3 philips screws secure it to the frame of the engine.
Remove the screws and you should be able to pull the shroud up and away.
The Color wheel has two cables coming out of it; one is a 3 or 4 wire small square plug and the other is a flat ribbon cable. Be very careful when you remove the plug with wires?some people break the wires and then have to get the plug out of the socket with care. Both plugs connect the color wheel to the optical engine. The flat orange ribbon cable only has contacts on one side-WHEN YOU REMOVE IT NOTE WHICH DIRECTION THE CONTACTS ARE ON---if you put it in backwards(it can be done) the lamp will not turn on.
You need to be careful when you replace the shroud over the color wheel so that the two cables(the ribbon cable and the other one) do not get pinched by it.
With the wheel replaced; install the light engine back in place.
All these sets have a safety switch on the back edge of the frame---it is a lever that will not allow the set to be turned on with the back removed. After you have installed the light engine back if you want to see if it worked; tape or hold the lever(usually blue and on the right side as you look from the back).
If the set comes on and the lamp comes on do not look directly at the lamp---Once you see you have a working set turn it off and wait for the lamp fan to shut off in back?usually a few minutes.
Bolt everything back and replace the back cover also---this should complete the repair.
Some of these sets after you do this will work but the color will look off--flesh tones will be off--if this happens there is a small jumper on the metal box on the light engine that needs to be located and pulled out--places that sell the color wheel do not tell people about this.






This detailed procedure will help you to replace color wheel in your television.

Green Blinking light of death?

Go through the above mentioned details if you notice Green blinking light of death on your television.
This information applies to Mitsubishi sets that have a Model number beginning with VS, WS, WT etc. It does not apply to the WD series of sets made later.
ONLY 1 of 2 things can cause this problem----

First thing to do is remove front speaker grill--it should pull out and is secured with plastic pegs--behind it you will find an inspection plate---

Notice the one or two pairs of wires coming from the front keyboard of the set---remove the inspection plate and follow the wires to the right--you can unplug both plugs(most have two and they are marked with letters and different sizes so you cannot get them wrong)

The idea here is to remove the front keyboard with its reset button etc from the circuit---You will still be able to try to turn the set on with the remote---

These sets have a Receiver that is called a DM board--(large metal box to the left as you look from the back) and if the power goes out the green light will blink for about 70 seconds and then go out---it is the Receiver booting up. It is called the DM board.

If disconnecting the keyboard allows the set to turn on--you have a bad reset switch and two choices---either operate the set only with the remote or to remove the front screen and get at the reset switch (it is tiny) and remove and/or replace it.

If disconnecting the keyboard does not restore the set to operation---the receiver is bad---there are 4 or more caps and some pico fuses that can fail in that unit---Mitsubishi no longer sells or repairs these--if it is bad and not the caps there is a company you can send the unit to and have it repaired--if you need to know their name let me know---

You can call them and get a quote for repairing the receiver.

There are sites on the internet selling a "kit" with the caps etc and instructions for replacing them---if they are bad the silver tops of them will be bulged up and not flat.

The above mentioned details will help you know the problem better on your television.So you can take a step forward in taking a decision in getting it repaired by professional or doing in yourself.

How to repair a Remote Control?

You can check out this details if you notice problem with your remote controls operation,.
When you have a remote control that is not working properly---works but some buttons either do or do not work correctly the most common cause for this is something got spilled on the front of the remote--it does not have to be a large amount to cause problems.
The way all infrared remotes work is there is a circuit board inside with black carbon lines etched on it---this includes lines for each function the remote has.

The buttons on the outside of the remote are actually one large rubber like mat and on the bottom side are coated black buttons---when you press a button on the keyboard the button part on the bottom of the mat touches lines on the circuit board and directs the remote to send a infrared signal to the unit it controls.
In this situation you have two choices:

1.) Most remotes can be taken apart and cleaned for this problem--I have done hundreds of them.

a) Once you get the remote apart (the hard part) the rubber mat should lift freely off of the circuit board---if you have to peel it off and feel resistance you will see whatever residue of what was spilled and got under it; it gets between the mat and the circuit board.

b) The surface of the board where the lines are can be cleaned with denatured alcohol.

c) To clean the mat: remove it completely and with a small toothbrush and dish soap gently wash it in the sink with warm water. Then dry it with compressed air or a hairdryer set to air only. When it is COMPLETELY dry put it back into the face of the remote.

d) If there was a spill into the remote it is also a good idea to clean the face of the remote where the buttons protrude and dry it completely before you put the mat back.

e) Put the remote back together and see if it now works.

Your second option is to borrow another remote for the same kind of unit and see it works normally--if it does and cleaning does not fix the original remote--YOU WILL NEED to buy a new original remote for the unit.

I stay away from "Universal" remotes as many either will not work or be missing several features the original one had.

If a KNOWN good remote does not work it is possible but very unlikely that the problem is in the unit the remote conrols.

See attached photo of a typical remote taken apart--note the lines on the board and the bottom of the buttons on the keypad.

Neverclean the bottom of the buttons with anything except soap and water .As any chemicals can damage the black conductive coating on the bottom of each button--it will not hurt the lines on the circuit board!





This above mentioned details should help you make your remote work again or know your remote control better.

Mitsubishi PIP module BYPASS ?

Read the procedure as follows for PIP module bypas
The details as as follows :---
This applies to most Direct view and some projection sets made in the 1990's.
While it is possible to repair in some cases this problem it is quicker and cheaper just to bypass the module--you will no longer have the PIP function.
Here are the bypass instructions:
1.) With the set unplugged remove the back cover and locate the PIP board to the left side of the set--one wire (usually green) is soldered to the metal shield. Unsolder the lead and set it aside.
2.) The board is plugged in and you will have to release the two tabs at the bottom to pull it out.
3.) Locate the pins on the large plug (should be 12 pin) on the bottom of the board.
4.) You need to CUT the copper foil traces with an Exacto knife on pins 5, 7, 9. and 11 near the plug so they are no longer connected to the plug.
5.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 7 and the - or negative on pin 9.
6.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 5 and the - (negative) on pin 11.
7.) Reinstall the PIP board and make sure the caps do not touch anything near that board; solder the ground wire back to the shield.
The reason the board fails is because the surface mounted caps dry out and or leak onto the circuit board---there are a lot of them.


I have seen shops replace some of the caps and get it to work but sooner or later more go bad so usually it is better just to bypass the board and not have the PIP feature anymore.


The above mentioned details will help you out.

MITSUBISHI PROJECTION TV TROUBLESHOOTING?

Types of problems occurs on Mitsubishi projection TV.

If you have a Mitsubishi rear projection where the model number begins with WS or in some cases VS and the set turns on for a moment (green light comes on and goes off) Do the self check most models made from 1999 through about 2005 have:
When the power light comes on and then goes out, on the front of the set press both the MENU and INPUT buttons at the same time and hold them both in for at least 5 seconds and then release both buttons.
The power light will blink a 2 digit error code and repeat it at least 5 times.
This does not apply to sets with a WD model number, they have different codes.
The most common error will be 2 blinks, 2 blinks- a pause and then it will repeat it for a total of at least 5 times.
To get it to repeat this--you have to unplug the set, try to turn it on again and repeat the process.
The error codes are to try to narrow down where the problem is.
If you get one, you can post a question in the Free section here:
Mitsubishi was one of the first to have this feature so techs could with ease know where to look for whatever was wrong--a time saver and several other companies followed suit.

The above mentioned details will help you to understand the problem on your television better.

convergence problem on Televisions?

Go through the details mentioned below, if you face convergence problem on your television.


Many rear projection TV sets made from the mid 1990?s through 2006 develop convergence problems and the reason is simple: Most use 2 IC chips (there are a few that used 3 and a few Mitsubishi use just one) and the chips are on average about 2 1/2 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches tall.

Most have 18 pins or more and are black in color---Most will have a STK NUMBER printed in white on the front of them. The most popular one ever used is STK-392-110, IT was used in Panasonic, Hitachi, JVC, and even some Mitsubishi sets.

The chips have a metal back on them and are attached to a large metal plate usually with fins, it is called a heat sink. A white material like a grease is placed on the metal back of each chip before it is bolted to the metal. The Heat sink compound (or grease) is designed to transfer heat quickly from the part which gets quite hot to the metal heat sink to keep the chip cool.

After some years (usually 5-8) the grease has dried out from the heat it moves and the chip overheats and goes. Depending on what happens it can also take a resistor or two out around the chip when this happens or fuses designed to protect the voltage going to the chip can be blown.

About 70% of the time just the chips need to be located and replaced and the set adjusted with the original remote control.

Some sets are fairly easy to repair with this problem and a few very difficult (RCA?s made from 2003-2206 or Pioneer sets fall into this group).

This can be a do it yourself repair but first you want to determine if it is your problem. All these sets have in the customer menu a way to attempt to manually correct convergence--go there first and see if it will adjust.

If Red or Blue will not move in some direction(left/right or up down) You have a convergence problem.

A lot of sets have an automatic way Hitachi calls it ?magic focus? and it only attempts to adjust at less than 20 points on the screen.

If the set does adjust, whatever the brand, you will need to with the remote get into the tech menu for your set, adjust and SAVE the adjustments.

When it comes to parts you have a lot of options.

1. You can go online and buy a ?kit? for your model----I do not recommend this as it is expensive and usually contains parts you are never going to need.

2. You can ID the chips and buy them locally----I do not suggest this either as it will be as expensive as buying a useless kit.

3. Typical suppliers here sell the chips for about 25 dollars each(X 2) but most of the parts are available online or on EBAY for much less. One good source is Suburban Electronics in Maryland--chips that will cost you 50 for a pair they sell for less than 14 for a pair and they have almost every part needed for this repair.

4. Both chips have to be replaced, I have seen shops that just replace one and it is a ticking bomb. Suburban is also on Ebay-----select advanced search, search by seller and type sewsales55.

The also have a online catalog, this is not a advertisement for them; I have bought a lot of parts for my own use from them----


5.) Remember the old heat sink grease must be removed and new applied when you install the parts.

6.) Taking set to shop may not be a economical option, most get 250-350 for this repair versus under 30 dollars parts cost if you can do it yourself.


The above mentioned details will help you to understand your tv convergence problem.So you can step forward in replacing it yourself or in case getting it repaired by professional tv tech.

Details regarding Remote controls?

Read this details before buying or getting your remote control repaired.

1. If you are buying a UNIVERSAL remote for some reason do not expect it to provide all the original functions or EVEN TO WORK FOR YOUR UNIT. You in most cases are better with the original---if the original does not work there are ways to deal with that.

A dead remote is usually bad batteries, dirty or loose connections or has had some liquid spilled into it.

Most remotes can be taken apart (if its dead nothing to lose here) and the circuit board cleaned with alcohol etc and the rubber like keypad washed with dish soap, dried completely and the unit usually works again.

2. NEVER STORE REMOTES WITH THE BATTERIES IN THEM FOR PROLONGED PERIODS OF TIME; the batteries can leak and a white mess similar to battery cables in a car occurs. This can be dealt with by cleaning all the white stuff out and cleaning the metal contacts by use of a small file or knife----DO NOT USE WATER etc for cleaning here.

3. Most shops have a remote tester, it is a card with a strip and when the remote is pointed at it the strip lights up (3 dollar item on the internet).

4. Lost remotes for many units are a problem----some never think to GOOGLE THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE SET with the word REMOTE after it---AVOID UNIVERSALS. Many units (TV combos, DVD, blue ray etc) MUST HAVE THE ORIGINAL REMOTE for all functions to be accessed.

5. Three things for the most part cause remotes not to work: DROPPED, LIQUID SPILLED, AND BATTERY ISSUES.

Dropped is most likely to be fatal if the board inside is damaged, the other two are fixable 95% of the time.

This details will help you to understand your remote control better.

Frigidaire FGX831F Top Load Stacked Washer / Dryer will not heat?

There are two types of dryer electric dryer and gas dryer.
If electric dryer is not heating:---
See procedure 1:--
If gas dryer is not heating see procedure 2:---

Procedure 1:---
If your electric dryer is spinning around but there is no heat to dry your clothing then this tip is for you.



There are typically three reasons why the electric dryer does not make heat.

1. the electric heating element has gone bad
2. the thermal cut-out switch has opened up (activated)
3. the high-limit thermostat has failed
4. 110v power only going to the dryer.

Before doing anything make sure that you check for 220v power at the back of the dryer. The motor and the control components can and do run on 110v power. The dryer can start and spin on 110v power but will have no heat symptoms. The electric heating element must have 220v power to make any heat.

None of the three parts are very expensive parts and all of them can be replaced for under a hundred bucks. When ordering parts for your dryer it is best just to order all of them to make sure that you do not have to pull the thing apart soon again just because you failed to replace an old part when you had it apart.

To get to where the heating parts are you will need to remove a panel of the dryer. To determine which panel, check to see where your lint screen is. If your screen is on the top of the dryer then you will access the heating components by removing the back panel.



If your dryer lint screen is in the door of the dryer then you have a bit more difficult time. The access can be obtained by removing the bottom panel in the front. This is held fast by either screws on the bottom or by retaining clips in the seams a couple of inches in from each side of the dryer. A putty knife is a good tool to release the clips with.

Make sure that you unplug the dryer before checking any of the heating components.For information as to where the different components are you can do a search for “appliance parts” and then enter you model number in one of the parts supply web sites. Most of them have “exploded” diagrams of the different machines so you can tell where the parts you are looking for are located. These sites also are where you would order the parts you need. Be sure to check a couple of different ones to be sure you are getting the lowest price. The prices can vary from site to site and no one is always the cheapest.

When checking to see which part is bad you will need an electric meter with a resistance scale. The heating element will give you a reading of 9-13 OHMS if the element is good. The thermal cut-out and the high-limit will each read 0 OHMS if they are good. If you get any readings other than that replace the component.



The heating element is located in the heater box. The high-limit will be mounted to the heater box closest to the element. The thermal cut-out is mounted a bit further away and is a safety just in case the high-limit fails.

As I stated before it is advisable to replace all these parts at once for the best results.

After replacing the parts reinstall all parts and then plug the dryer back in to check the operation. You should now be making heat to dry once again.




Procedure 2:---
If your gas dryer is not working because it is not heating then you need to check this out. Today’s gas dryers often do not use the simplethermocouple with a pilot to prove the flame anymore. They use a much more complicated method of lighting the burner and proving the flame.

The use of electric igniters has become the standard for many dryers today. The thermostat calls for heat, power is supplied to the igniter, then after a certainamperage draw on the igniter, the gas valve is energizes to open and allow gas to flow starting the flame. As long as the amperage draw on the igniter is high enough then the gas valve stays open till the thermostatis satisfied.

Sometimes the igniter will crack and no current will go through and the igniter will not even heat up or glow. Sometimes the igniter will wear to the point where it will still heat up and glow, but the current draw will not be high enough to allow the gas valve to open. This creates a confusing situation where you look into the dryer and see the glow from the igniter, but get no heat because the burner never lights up. If this is the case then you will need to replace the igniter even though it seems to be okay. The only way to know for sure is to know what the current draw requirements are for that gas valve and to have an amp meter to check the current draw.

Most of the time the problem will be in the igniter, and not the gas valve. Gas valves can go bad, but that is the case in only a very small amount of the situations. It is a pretty safe bet that if you have a problem with you gas dryer lighting that you have a problem with your igniter. 

Maytag Neptune MDE4000 Electric Dryer will not start?

The following details will help you to troubleshoot the problems regarding no start problem on your electric dryer.

If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.

A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or thedoor switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with two wires attached.

A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.

The push (or turn) to start switch can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.

If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the “even heat” control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.

Check for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can cause fires.

A bad power cord also falls into this same category.

Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.

Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater w/Electronic Ignition will not heat?

Check to see if you are getting power to the ignitor... if not then the ignition control module is bad or there is another control that is keeping the control module from trying to light the furnace...
Check for 24v power going to the control module and also check that all of the saftey controls are closed and completing the safety circuit.If you are getting 24v to the board,then its bad.

Emerson MW8115SS Microwave Oven turntable will not turn?

Go through this microwave oven problems,This will help you troubleshoot all the basic details to resolve the issue on your microwave.
If you are having problems with your Microwave Oven not working then you need to systematically go through these troubleshooting tips to figure out exactly why yourMicrowave does not work

The main thing to remember about microwave ovens is that they have large electrical capacitors inside them that can discharge lethal amounts of current even after they have been unplugged. Touching the wrong wire(s) inside, even after unplugging the unit can still be deadly. Make sure that you know how to discharge the capacitors or have a certified repair technician work on your oven.

The most common problem for the oven to not work at all is that the internal (thermal) fuse has blown. This fuse is there to protect both you and your appliance. It will be a simple fix for an experienced technician.

The door switch is another common problem. This switch is activated by the latch, and if it is broken the switch will not allow the oven to work.

If you can hear the oven running and it sounds normal but there is no heat then there is an internal problem with the high voltage circuitry or you may have a problem with the circuit board. Changing the circuit board or the high voltage components is something that you want experienced hands to do.

If it does heat but the power level will not change, then there is something called a triac (electronic voltage controller) that has failed. This also is a job for a qualified technician.

If the turntable stops turning, this is usually caused by the failure of the smallmotor that spins the turntable. This does not effect the heating but to replace this motor the cabinet needs to be open which will expose you to the hazards of the high voltage components. It is best to seek help to do this.

Intermittent heating problems are often caused by steam making condensation of the electronic components or a loose connection in the circuitry. If it is moisture the circuitry will dry out and work after some time. If it is a loose wire then it will need to be fixed by a technician.

If your unit microwave runs but is buzzing very loudly, then you have problems with the magnetron, the high voltage capacitor, or the power diode. These components are all high voltage components and need to be treated with great care. A good technician knows how to diagnose and repair them safely.

If you observe sparking inside the microwave, turn it off immediately. This can be caused by metal inside, or can also be caused by excessive food or liquid buildup. If it causes any burn spots you will need to have then repaired or fix them to have asafe appliance.

This will give you many of the basic causes for problems in a microwave oven. As you can see there is very little that an untrained person can safely do to repair this appliance.
This can however give you some idea of what to expect if you need to call a repair technician to work on your appliance.