Replacing CONVERGENCE IC?

Convergence problem is faced on many tv models.In most of the cases its the problem of two mini convergence ic's.Replacing this ic's is not very difficult.

CONVERGENCE IC REPLACEMENT:
What you will need;
Two new STK-392-110 convergence Ic?s
Solder
Liquid solder flux
Desoldering braid or wick
A good soldering Iron
Some denatured alcohol
A small toothbrush
A Philips screwdriver or screw gun to REMOVE SCREWS
A PAIR OF GLOVES 

1. UNPLUG TV SET.
2. Remove back cover of TV set.
3. Remove entire front speaker grill on set(it pulls off and may resist being removed)
4. Locate and unplug speaker wires (they are plugged into the main circuit board).
5. Locate three cables with wires that come from the Front keyboard?two of them have to be unplugged from the main board(all plugs are different sizes but note where they go)
6. Remove 2 long philips silver machine bolts from the front of the set (behind the grill).
7. Remove 4 more in the back of the set; two are located at the extreme back edge of the plastic frame and hold the chassis down; two more are located on either side and also go straight down; note which are which and set them aside.
8. Using gloves pull the entire metal box (it is called a light box) out of the set; there are hand holds on either side?careful as the metal has sharp edges.
9. Remove the box from the set and locate the two Convergence IC chips; they are located on identical metal heat sinks with fins and they should have the STK-392-110 number clearly printed on them in white (they are black)
10. Turn the light box over on its side and UNSOLDER ALL 18 PINS ON EACH IC. It is a good idea to apply liquid solder flux to the pins on both chips now. Use a de-soldering braid for this?get all the pins completely de-soldered.
11. Inspect the dozen or so light blue resistors in front of them; most are marked 2.2 ohms?if any are white in the middle you will need to replace them at the same time; best way is to check all of them like checking a fuse----they protect the set if one of the STK?s shorts in any way.
12. With the STK?s completely unsoldered turn the box upright and remove the two screws on each IC. If the chips have never been replaced you will need to tap them loose with a putty knife or flat bladed screwdriver.
13. Remove both IC?s.
14. Apply heat sink grease to the two new IC?s and install them one at a time; this part can take some time and it is important the pins on the new IC?s are perfectly straight---once you get them in, Hand tighten both the screws on each IC---do not use a screw gun?you can strip the screw holes out. Clean the bottom of the circuit board where the chips were soldered with some denatured alcohol and apply liquid solder flux to all the pins.
15. Presuming you have already found/replaced any bad resistors turn the box back over and solder carefully both of the two new IC?s in, --do not short any of the pins to each other when you do this and when you are done it is a good idea to take a close look at both to make sure all pins are soldered and not touching each other with soldering you have just done.Clean the pins on the bottom of the circuit board again with denatured alcohol.
16. Slide entire light box back into the cabinet.
17. Reconnect the plugs you removed when you removed the box. At this point take a lens cloth or a paper towel with glass cleaner sprayed on it and clean the three large black lens-if they are dusty the picture will be darker and not as clear as is should.
18. Position the box so it is all the way in place and none of the wires or plugs are pinched.
19. At this point turn the set on before you replace the Six bolts that hold it in?2 from the front and the four in back----this way if you have a problem you can remove the box faster.
20. If the set comes on and now has normal Convergence go into the customer menu and adjust the convergence in the multi-point mode----CAREFUL! THE FIRST OPTION this set usually offers is a green cross in the middle of the screen?do not adjust Green!
21. Once you have the Red and Blue in the center adjusted find the second convergence mode---it will give you 8 or nine points on the screen with instructions on how to change from blue to red---use the original remote with the thumb wheel or cursor buttons to adjust.
22. NOTE: SOME of these sets need to have the Convergence adjusted in first: full/4:3 and second in the other two zoom/wide zoom and third on the HD input with a HD signal coming in. There is also an option at this point to go into the Technical menu and fine adjust the convergence all over the screen?if you need this I can give you instructions based on the model you have?most of the time adjusting the set in the customer mode will produce a good result.
23. It seems complicated, but this repair should take about an hour or so and just take your time when you get to adjusting the set.
24. If all looks good turn the set off and Unplug it; install all 6 of the chassis bolts back; replace the back cover and the Speaker grill and plug the set back in.
25. You may find it useful to go over the convergence Adjust again?to get all the points as good as you can. There is a hidden Tech menu that will allow a finer adjustment of the entire screen----it is somewhat difficult to access and there are a lot of buttons on the remote that then do different things.
26. Most of the time adjusting in the customer menu will give you a very acceptable picture.

This above mentioned details will help you know how to replace convergence ic and how to set the picture to perfect mode.

Green Blinking light of death?

Go through the above mentioned details if you notice Green blinking light of death on your television.
This information applies to Mitsubishi sets that have a Model number beginning with VS, WS, WT etc. It does not apply to the WD series of sets made later.
ONLY 1 of 2 things can cause this problem----

First thing to do is remove front speaker grill--it should pull out and is secured with plastic pegs--behind it you will find an inspection plate---

Notice the one or two pairs of wires coming from the front keyboard of the set---remove the inspection plate and follow the wires to the right--you can unplug both plugs(most have two and they are marked with letters and different sizes so you cannot get them wrong)

The idea here is to remove the front keyboard with its reset button etc from the circuit---You will still be able to try to turn the set on with the remote---

These sets have a Receiver that is called a DM board--(large metal box to the left as you look from the back) and if the power goes out the green light will blink for about 70 seconds and then go out---it is the Receiver booting up. It is called the DM board.

If disconnecting the keyboard allows the set to turn on--you have a bad reset switch and two choices---either operate the set only with the remote or to remove the front screen and get at the reset switch (it is tiny) and remove and/or replace it.

If disconnecting the keyboard does not restore the set to operation---the receiver is bad---there are 4 or more caps and some pico fuses that can fail in that unit---Mitsubishi no longer sells or repairs these--if it is bad and not the caps there is a company you can send the unit to and have it repaired--if you need to know their name let me know---

You can call them and get a quote for repairing the receiver.

There are sites on the internet selling a "kit" with the caps etc and instructions for replacing them---if they are bad the silver tops of them will be bulged up and not flat.

The above mentioned details will help you know the problem better on your television.So you can take a step forward in taking a decision in getting it repaired by professional or doing in yourself.

Mitsubishi PIP module BYPASS ?

Read the procedure as follows for PIP module bypas
The details as as follows :---
This applies to most Direct view and some projection sets made in the 1990's.
While it is possible to repair in some cases this problem it is quicker and cheaper just to bypass the module--you will no longer have the PIP function.
Here are the bypass instructions:
1.) With the set unplugged remove the back cover and locate the PIP board to the left side of the set--one wire (usually green) is soldered to the metal shield. Unsolder the lead and set it aside.
2.) The board is plugged in and you will have to release the two tabs at the bottom to pull it out.
3.) Locate the pins on the large plug (should be 12 pin) on the bottom of the board.
4.) You need to CUT the copper foil traces with an Exacto knife on pins 5, 7, 9. and 11 near the plug so they are no longer connected to the plug.
5.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 7 and the - or negative on pin 9.
6.) You install (on the bottom of the board) a 4.7 mfd filter cap with the + on pin 5 and the - (negative) on pin 11.
7.) Reinstall the PIP board and make sure the caps do not touch anything near that board; solder the ground wire back to the shield.
The reason the board fails is because the surface mounted caps dry out and or leak onto the circuit board---there are a lot of them.


I have seen shops replace some of the caps and get it to work but sooner or later more go bad so usually it is better just to bypass the board and not have the PIP feature anymore.


The above mentioned details will help you out.